We Are Friends!

Due to time difference, I didn't sleep well last night and woke up at about five in the morning. I got up since I felt I could not fall asleep again. Here the temperature range between the day time and the night is large, so hot in the day but during the night it's cool and even a little cold. The moon light spread over me like water and the yard was quiet, which made me homesick, I know it was around 13:00 in Kunming, so I called my family and friends back in Kunming.

My friends were happy receiving my call, only my wife Li Jia "scolded" me and told me that I should have more rest and shouldn't get up so early.

After breakfast, Robert took us to the Cemetery of Kwane Nkrumah, Ghana's first president. Kwame Nkrumah became the first prime minister and later president of Ghana. He was born on September 21, 1909, at Nkroful in what was then the British-ruled Gold Coast, the son of a goldsmith. Trained as a teacher, he went to the United States in 1935 for advanced studies and continued his schooling in England, where he helped organize the Pan-African Congress in 1945. He returned to Ghana in 1947 and became general secretary of the newly founded United Gold Coast Convention but split from it in 1949 to form the Convention People's party (CPP).

After his 'positive action' campaign created disturbances in 1950, Nkrumah was jailed, but when the CPP swept the 1951 elections, he was freed to form a government, and he led the colony to independence as Ghana in 1957. A firm believer in African liberation, Nkrumah pursued a radical pan-African policy, playing a key role in the formation of the Organization of African Unity in 1963. As head of government, he was less successful however, and as time passed he was accused of forming a dictatorship. In 1964 he formed a one-party state, with himself as president for life, and was accused of actively promoting a cult of his own personality. Overthrown by the military in 1966, with the help of western backing, he spent his last years in exile, dying in Bucharest, Romania, on April 27, 1972. His legacy and dream of a "United States of African" still remains a goal among many.

Nkrumah was the motivating force behind the movement for independence of Ghana, then British West Africa, and its first president when it became independent in 1957. His numerous writings address Africa's political destiny.

In order to memorize their great leader, the Ghana people built a statuary in his cemetery for him. In his memorial, there was a picture of him with Premier Zhou Enlai. The local guide told us that he liked Premier Zhou very much for his noble mind and sincerity. He then said he liked Chinese people very much too. We were really moved to hear an African person saying it so truthfully. Fei Xuan patted his shoulder and said in English: "We are all friends!"

Now since we became friends, we went to visit his home upon his passionate invitation. The traffic in Accra is intolerable but it's not hard to understand. It's the capital of a country, after all, and heavy traffic can somehow be explained as an expression of prosperity. To our surprise, we found those traffic management coordinators in the streets -- I had thought that this is a unique feature of China!

The construction of Accra is good and the main streets are very clean. However, there are defects in the infrastructure. Getting out of our hotel, we could not find a single public restroom in the streets. It would be a big problem for any tourist who runs into an emergency like diarrhea due to unaclimatization. In Ghana, many constructions were done by Chinese companies, which made us proud. The construction group really played important roles in promoting friendship between China and Ghana.

Mosquitoes! Whenever we went near ditches, rivers and places full of water, we started to feel very nervous. There were countless mosquitoes in these places and me and Fei Xuan were extremely attractive to them, probably because our blood was "fresh" to them. Every time we stopped, there were those clacks made by Fei Xuan to kill the mosquitoes -- apparently he was much more skillful than me in dealing with the pests. A lot of times I even envied him when I heard the clacks and saw the numerous dead mosquito bodies on the ground.

Mosquitoes are the first killer here, they carry diseases like malaria which is a vital disease even today. Without efficient treatment, it kills 50% of those infected. We have brought with us special medicines which gave us some comfort. But in such hot weather, with a cluster of mosquitoes around you, the noises they make can drive you crazy. It was the first time in my life that I hated the mosquitoes so much!

From 32° to 88°!

Today we got up early, as we were planning to visit the Chinese Embassy in Accra. We had called the embassy yesterday and on the phone they expressed their pleasure in having me, Fei Xuan and Robert as guests.

And so very soon we were hosted as great guests in the embassy and we held a small press release there. Many reporters from Ghanaian medias and officials from Ghana Tourism Ministry attended. This expedition aroused attention of the Ghanaian people and I know that many of the Ghanaian medias already reported about our expedition. What surprised us was the Ghanaians knowledge about China, because when we mentioned that this expedition is sponsored by Zhaotong City and Hongta Group, one of the reporters immediately said, "oh, I know that cigarette!" His words brought a laughter, of course. Compared to Hongta Group, they know less about Zhaotong City, one of them asked me whether Zhaotong is a place like Shangri'la, so I told them that Zhaotong is not as mysterious and beautiful as Shangri'la.

However, Zhaotong City is the most shining pearl in the south of the colorful cloud (Yunnan in Chinese literally means south of the cloud). I hereby welcome all of you reading my diaries to come and visit Zhaotong -- now my city too, and I guarantee it will never let you down. This is not just for commercial, I promise!

The representative from the Ghana Tourism Ministry, Ms. Gifty Kwansd, spoke of welcome and good luck for us. She said that our choice of Ghana as the starting country of the expedition is very wise as Ghana is always a beautiful, passionate and hospitable country. We then had a group photo which will probably on the front pages of Ghanaian medias!

Departing the embassy, our beautiful guide said she would take us to a very interesting place and she kept saying NO when we asked her where she was taking us. When we turned to Robert, he also only said, "come, soon you will know and will not be disappointed!"

After about a half an hour's drive, the guide got off the van and had us follow her. It was a very common place, a common house, a tree that you could see everywhere in Accra along with all the other common features of Accra, and the house is even a little shabby. How could it not disappoint us?

Robert took us to stand beside the tree, and told me to take out my GPS. When I turned on the satellite positioning, the longitude showed 0°. I was really astonished for a moment and when I looked up, Robert and the guide were smiling at us. When Fei Xuan immediately took out his cell, it showed the same. We finally knew that we were standing on the Zero Meridien or the Prime Meridien.

Robert had told us about Ghana being "the centre of the world" when he was suggesting that we pick Ghana as the starting country of the expedition. With the Prime Meridien and the Equator intersecting on its southern coast, Ghana is-geographically speaking-the centermost country in the world.

After taking some photos, I picked a small bag of earth from the ground under the tree. A bag of earth from the center of the earth, this will be the best souvenir I can have during this expedition!

Then we took an excursion to see the fantasy coffins of Teshie/Nungua. Among the Ga people it has become fashionable to be buried in a coffin that relates to something the deceased did in life. For example, a fisherman might be buried in a giant fish or a taxi driver buried in a coffin built to look like a car. We visited the workshops of two of the coffin makers and saw many whimsical designs of the containers where people will spend their eternity.

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Sahara update 005
April 10th Cape Coast -- Sunny

Hopes Gestated in the Poverty

More than three hours' drive, we were finally at today's destiny-Cape Coast. It's very beautiful here, with the blue sea water swiftly flapping the reef and the hot sun shining upon the people. The air was quite fresh and the sky seemed transparent.

Cape Coast, or Cabo Corso, is the capital of the Central Region of Ghana and is also the capital city of the Fante (Fanti) people, or Mfantsefo. It is situated 165 km west of Accra on the Gulf of Guinea. It has a population of 82,291 (2000 census). From the 16th century the city has changed hands between the British, the Portuguese, the Swedish, the Danish and the Dutch. The city's Fante name is Oguaa [pronounced in an Anglophone style as "Ee-gwer," with the accent on the second syllable, which rhymes with 'where'].

Founded by the Portuguese in the 15th century, Cape Coast grew around Cape Coast Castle, now a World Heritage Site. It was converted to a castle by the Dutch in 1637, then expanded by the Swedes in 1652 and captured by the British in 1664. The British based their Gold Coast operations in the town until Accra became their capital in 1877. Cape Coast was also where most of the slaves were held before their journey on the Middle Passage.

The town's symbol is a crab and a statue of one lies in the city centre. Fort William, built in 1820, was an active lighthouse from 1835 to the 1970s, while Fort Victoria was built in 1702. Other attractions include the Cape Coast Centre for National Culture, the Oguaa Fetu Afahye harvest festival and, since 1992, the biennial Panafest theatre festival.

Slave trade is the most filthy and bloody page in human history. Passing through the dim ancient fortress, inhaling the fusty air, as if there were the miserable groaning and depressive cry of the slaves ever jailed there, everyone became repressive. Bearing those tribulation in my heart, I felt it was even hard to breathe.

Leaving the distressing ancient slave fort, we arrived at Cape Coast's busiest fishing port. The inhabitants there make their lives on the sea. But they can only fish in the offing of the sea and their method of fishing is mostly the same as their ancestors hundreds of years ago. They are honest but poor, they live by the richness of the sea but they are not good at exploiting the resources. In the far distance, you could see the huge fishing vessels of Japan, Korea, Europe and America with advanced equipment.

Compared to these fishing vessels, the poor fishermen can only capture some small fish, their lives are very hard, but there are always smiles on their faces. They do not fear the hardships, what they only want is health of their family members, the obedience of their children. These are good enough to make them happy. Every place of this charming and mysterious country is attractive to the tourists from all over the world because every place is unique.

In the fishing port, we saw many European families touring there with their kids playing with the local kids, capturing the fish in the water. During vacations, they prefer to stay away from the city life and to resolute into the nature.

I see a difference between the tourism conceptions of the Chinese and the western. Most Chinese people when they are travelling they prefer to the prosperous and bustling large cities, and a lot of their travelling time is spent in waiting in the queues and taking photos and the historic and cultural element contained in the scenic spots is neglected.

While when the western travelers are choosing their destinies, they would choose those places which are slower in development and those which can give them peace and pleasure in their heart. This can explain why Dali and Li Jiang attract so many western foreigners.

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Sahara update 006
April 11th, Kumasi -- Sunny

Tropical Forests on the Edge of the Desert

Departing Cape Coast, we drove to the famous Kakum National Park in Ghana---an old tropical rain forest. On our way to the park, Fei Xuan discovered an exposed mica mine.

Kakum National Park is 30 kilometers to the sea and it is the most important nature reserve in the south of Ghana. The primal rain forest with almost no human disturbance, has become the habitat of birds, butterflies and rare animals.

It was a surprise for us to be able to tour a tropical rain forest before entering the desert. We had been refused by Senegal, and in return we were given this opportunity. Indeed as believed by our Chinese ancestors, misfortune may be an actual blessing!

Kakum is famous for its 300 metre long Aerial Walkway through the tree canopy high above the forest floor. Reaching a height of 60 metres, visitors get a bird's-eye view of the tropical hardwood trees and numerous species of birds. Kakum is known for its more than 200 species of birds, monkeys, rare forest elephants and other animals.

Departing Kakum national Park, we arrived in Ghana's second largest city---Kumasi. Kumasi is a city in southern central Ghana. It is located near the Lake Bosomtwe, in the Rain Forest Region about 250 km (by road) northwest of Accra. Kumasi is approximately 300 miles north of the Equator and 100 miles north of the Gulf of Guinea. It is popularly known as "The Garden City" or "heart beat" of Ghana because of its many beautiful species of flowers and plants.

With a population of 1,517,000[1], Kumasi is the second-largest city in the country. The largest ethnic group is the Ashanti, but other ethnic groups are growing in size. Approximately 80% of the population is Christian and 5% Muslim, with a smaller number of adherents to traditional beliefs. It is an Anglican diocesan and Roman Catholic archdiocesan see.

There is evidence that the area around Kumasi has been kept cleared since the Neolithic age.

The city rose to prominence in 1695 when it became capital of the Ashanti Confederacy due to the activities of its ruler Osei Tutu. The ruler of Kumasi, known as the Kumasehene, also served as ruler of the Confederacy. With their 1701 victory over Denkyira the Asante confederacy became the primary state among the Twi speaking Akan peoples.

Parts of the city, including the Royal Palace, were destroyed by British troops in the Fourth Anglo-Ashanti War of 1874. It remains a royal city, although since all of Ghana was declared independent in 1957, the role of king has been mainly symbolic. The city holds an important place in the history of the Ashanti people, as legend claims that it was here Okomfo Anokye received the Golden stool, an embodiment of the soul of the Asanti nation.

Then we transported to our hotel in Kumasi Royal Park Hotel. There hung a five-star red flag on the entrance of the hotel, we felt good at seeing it. The hotel is owned by a Chinese couple and it is the best hotel around the place. And most importantly there is Chinese food there. At dinner time when we entered the dining hall, we found that it was almost full. It seemed it was really popular place though we could see that people having dinner here were the richer and more educated people.

During the past couple of days, though we didn't only live on bananas and cassavas like the locals, we didn't really enjoy the flavor. But here we could see those familiar names of food, our appetite was aroused. There are not so many Chinese people here so we became very outstanding. But at the restaurant we did meet two young Chinese who work there.

Having a good sleep last night, I got up very early today. I got out of the hotel room and found that the outdoor floor was wet, "it rained," I thought and I immediately ran back into the room to tell Fei Xuan the great news. This is the first rain we had after we reached Africa.

After a simple breakfast, led by the guide, we headed for the far town Bolgatanga. En route we saw a round building---a stadium built by Chinese. The biggest in Ghana and many large sports events are held there every year.

We continued driving to Kintampo Falls after a short stop at the stadium. Kintampo Falls is an impressive waterfall on the Pumpum River. The falls cascade down rocks from a height of 30 metres in a forest glade. Kintampo Falls is also the intersection of the south rain forest range and the north Sahel area. In fact, Ghana is not a Saharan country to say in the geographic distribution of the surface plants, because there are prosperous plants growing in the land of Ghana and many we've never seen.

As soon as we reached the waterfall, our guide took us to a cluster of trees and picked two pieces of fruit from the tree. Smilingly, she asked us to guess what it was. The fruit looked like lantern capsicum that we have in Kunming, but we simply could not figure out the answer. Finally she told us it was cashew. She told both in English and Chinese. This was the first time we virtually saw cashew trees.

Beside the waterfalls, we met a group of local high school kids, it was hard for us to withstand their passion. They called "China! China!" as soon as they saw us. Due to language problem, we could only smile and waved to them, after all, we could not call"Africa! Africa" to them in return. Soon Fei Xuan and I were surrounded by the kids, they pointed our cameras and smiled, this we could understand, so I gave my camera to our guide and asked her to take pictures for us. Leaving the waterfalls, on our way to continue to Bolgatanga, Fei Xuan and I exclaimed. The Ghanaian people are so enthusiastic. Their passion upon the Chinese people does not have any age difference. In this hot land, both the men and women, the old and the kids, whenever they see black hair and yellow skin, they would call out "China."

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NEXT -- Reports: April 13 to April 19